Croton & Poughkeepsie

After a fabulous week in New York with family, we ventured north on the Hudson River. (It was Thursday, 5/24.) Next stop: Haverstraw Bay. Pete found an anchorage near Half Moon Bay Marina. “Croton Point-North” had two boats anchored when we arrived; one was another Loop boat called “Barefoot Shoes.” We saw this boat at Liberty Landing Marina but did not meet the captain(s). My research revealed the owners to be Steve and Rae Mason of Ontario, Canada. (Their AGLCA member profile did not offer their start date, but I’ll bet it was many months ago as their distinctive burgee was pretty faded.)

We learned that HMB Marina did not accommodate any dinghys, nor did they offer a restaurant or any other food/drink-related amenities. The Harbor Master, Steve, saw us circling the slips, and offered us info (and slip discounts) but we were not committed to the in-harbor experience. Instead, we explored the nearby marinas, and found the private Croton Yacht Club with a floating dinghy dock. The sign says “Members and Village Residents Only” but a captain leaving his slip advised us to use the dinghy dock and take the pedestrian crossing over the highway to the local eateries. 

We followed his advice and discovered “The Tavern at Croton Landing.”  It’s the kind of place where locals go to chill, and where they get served first. It was small, noisy, and bustling, with both inside and outside “sidewalk” seating. The menu was on a chalkboard, no hand-held menu to be found. Pete had a delicious chowder and a beef burger. I had their Tex-Mex Turkey burger with chips. We both enjoyed their featured cocktail, a Margarita. We got back to the boat before sunset and appreciated our quiet night.  

We woke up with the sun but ignored it for a while. We were the second of three boats to leave this peaceful spot. This day’s journey (Friday 5/25) took us about 30 miles up river to Poughkeepsie for a 2-night stay at Shadows Marina. We planned to rent a car for a day and take in the local historical sites. Our first choice would have been a tour of the United States Military Academy at West Point, but since it was graduation weekend, all tours were cancelled. Our amended plan included a visit the Roosevelt’s estates, and a drive back south to see the Croton Dam. 

As we motored along, we saw long freight trains on the west bank and fast Amtrak trains on the east bank. These trains continued service long into the night, although it was not loud enough to disturb our sleep. 

Once docked and hooked up to water and power, I met the Enterprise Car Rental driver and Pete waited for the Harbor Master. I returned in a red Corolla and armed with good news: the Culinary Institute of America was right up the road, and we needed lunch! Without reservations, we were seated in the American Bounty Restaurant. The only seats were bar stools, but this gave us access to the bartender who offered us some wonderful trivia about the CIA, and we didn’t need to pay for a tour! 

After lunch we went to the Franklin D. Roosevelt Museum and Presidential Library. I learned that he was a 3-term president (I maybe should have remembered this from school civics class), and that his was the first presidential library and the only presidential library completed while a president was still in office. I also learned a lot about Eleanor Roosevelt. We made a commitment to see her home at Val Kill the next morning (since it was now 5:00 pm), before returning the car. 

Our next mission was to get to Croton Dam before sunset. What we wanted was Croton Gorge Park, to view the spillway from the base of the dam. Instead, our navigator took us to the top of New Croton Dam (also called the Cornell Dam). We were able to walk across the new dam to view the Old Croton Dam from above, view the beautiful spillway and the impressive reservoir, and we saved $10 required to get in to the park. 

As we were driving out, we came across a peculiar sight. A young man, dressed in all black (including his odd hat), flagged us down. I noticed his sidelocks (twisted payot) suggesting he was a Hasidic Jew. He spoke broken English as he requested directions. He was lost, tired, and as best we could tell, quite anxious to find his way back. He wrote an address on a paper he ripped from a small notepad he had. Pete located the street on his cell phone navigator, and it wasn’t far. We offered to take him home. I could see the relief in his face. In a matter of minutes, we delivered him home. He was very grateful. Pete did some research. The address matches a rabbinical school. I wonder if there is a penance for leaving the compound? 

On our way out, Saturday morning, the captain of the third boat at Croton Point-North, who had also chosen this marina, greeted us with an invitation for docktails later. We said yes. 

We made the 10:00 am tour of Val Kill. This estate is relatively small, serene and unpretentious. The dining table was set with Franciscan Apple dinnerware and Libby glasses. The unmatched upholstered chairs all had different fabrics. Mrs. Roosevelt entertained Kings and Queens in this relaxed setting. Another fun fact: Eleanor Roosevelt wrote 27 books! I want to read all of them! 

We found a grocery store for the small list of items needed for two more days at anchor, then I returned the car. We had time for a siesta before meeting the couple on “the big boat.” 

Norm and Claudia, on their 57-foot Hattaras, are full-time live-aboards with their two sons, ages 12 and 14. The boys are home schooled, and their travels around the world offer an education unequalled by brick and mortar institutions. We shared stories for an hour and a half, grateful for Norm’s wisdom and Claudia’s insights. Something Norm said has us considering our 2019 travel plan. We will chew on his advice before making any changes, but if we do, it will be revealed here, in our blog.