Side Trip: Northern Wisconsin.

Our choice to descend Lake Michigan (the “Sunset Coast”) was predicated on the safest route and the news that there were ferries crossing the Great Lake to enable a visit with our Wisconsin friends. We learned that Ludington, MI, offered ferry service to Manitowoc, WI, every morning (except Sunday) at 08:00. We booked our crossing for Wednesday, 7/28. 

The “last-of-its-kind” coal-driven Badger Ferry is a relic and an historic moving monument. We boarded at 07:00, proceeded to our arranged stateroom, dropped our backpacks and briefly explored the ship. It was hard to imagine the cargo and travelers in its heyday although there are several vintage photographs around the ship to give passengers a feel for life in the early days. We spent most of the trip in our stateroom, isolating from other passengers.

My friend, Michael, met us at The Wharf restaurant near the Manitowoc Ferry Terminal. Michael and I met in the early 1980’s when I was a rookie Emergency Department RN. I was a new nurse and eager to learn more about medical care in a field setting. This was in the era of the television show “Emergency!” and I was intrigued by the characters of nurse Dixie McCall and the medics, Johnny Gage and Roy DeSoto. I became a Field Certified Mobile Intensive Care Nurse and got my certificate to drive an ambulance. I was hired by a local ambulance company and trained under the excellent supervision of the senior paramedic staff who were pioneers in this evolving field of medicine. As this was secondary employment, I didn’t have a regular schedule or partner, but I had the good fortune of paring with Michael a few times. I enjoyed working with him and loved his dry sense of humor! He liked sharing his knowledge and loved that I brought enough food for the both of us. We have stayed in touch throughout the decades sharing the successes of our careers as well as insights on the political and legislative challenges of our disciplines.  

The week of our visit coincided with AirVenture, the preeminent airshow of the Experimental Aircraft Association in Oshkosh. Pete has wanted to attend for years! He enjoyed two days roaming the expansive show and attending seminars.

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We were introduced to Supper Clubs! Our first experience was at Dale and Candi’s Cedar Lodge in Malone. As we approached the front door it was clear that everybody knew everyone. The frequent “Hello!” and “How are ya?” accompanied by smiles and pats on the back signaled familiar and sincere friendships. The foyer of the restaurant was a noisy bar and if you didn’t have your drink order on the tip of your tongue you were quickly passed over for another customer. I had a “Old Fashioned, sweet” (When in Rome…) while Pete stuck with his usual gin and tonic. We migrated to two bar stools that were just made available to overhear a conversation between two apparent pilots. These gents had a ton of local knowledge about the airshow that they shared with Pete. While we sipped our cocktails, we were handed menus. At the Cedar Lodge it is customary to order dinner while enjoying your apéritif so that when your table is ready the first course will soon follow. Our fritters, soups, salads, entrees, desserts and beverages were delicious. We waddled out and drove some neighborhoods of historical and emotional significance to Michael before returning to his home. It was clear to see why he chose to retire in Wisconsin with its beauty and his family connections.

My one-on-one time with a retired and relaxed Michael gave me a perspective that four decades chasing career dreams could not offer. His level of integrity and moral fortitude is admirable and quite frankly, rare in today’s society. He loves his Midwestern roots, helps family and neighbors alike, attends to his spiritual commitments, is charismatic but never a showboat, and he is generous with his time, talent and treasures. I believe there is an encore ahead for him, not in his past profession but something new and creative. I am certain that he will continue to do remarkable things as he settles in to this newer chapter of his life. 

Pete and I left Michael on Saturday morning and headed south to visit Catherine. I met her later in my career. By then I was an accomplished nurse, educator and mentor to others. I was a divorced mother of three mastering the work-life balance and adjusting to a new role on my climb up the career ladder. Shortly after starting the new job there was a shake-up in management. Catherine was my new boss and we were scheduled for a hospital-wide accreditation survey in a manner of weeks. We taught each other a lot in a short period of time and we were the embodiment of grace under fire when the surveyors examined our department. We were commended by both the surveyors and our top administrators. Needless to say, we bonded, and I was afforded a great deal of trust and latitude to carry out my various responsibilities. Catherine was always in my corner, professionally and personally. 

There is a large living room picture window in her new home and I have no doubt that Catherine was sitting there in her comfortable chair with ottoman anticipating our arrival. She and her husband Dennis were on the front steps in seconds to greet us with open arms while I was scrambling for my face mask. I was apprehensive about imposing on them since four days earlier Catherine received her second chemotherapy treatment for cancer. As careful as we have been with masking, distancing, and all of the precautionary protocols, I didn’t want to take any chances. Knowing the risks, as remote as they might be, Catherine threw her arms around me (while I held my breath) and let me know how much she and Dennis had been looking forward to this visit. We were escorted in, given a tour of the home, and then we settled in to our guest room. We built in time for an afternoon nap before going to another great supper club.

The Wisco in Le Roy was in an historic building (built in the late 1800’s) now run by Mike and Teresa. Mike at the bar greeted Dennis by name and Teresa, as hostess, hugged Catherine and led us to a bar table. The protocol was similar to the Cedar Lodge and the food was just as tasty. Dennis mentioned that a chain restaurant tried to make it in the area but failed because all the locals shunned it and continued dining at the supper clubs. 

Sunday was a lazy day with Pete taking charge of a home-cooked breakfast, then a few errands, followed by a naptime. Catherine and I had time alone to speak freely and share our optimism about her journey and how to make the most of every day in the face of a scary diagnosis. It felt good that she considered me to be her personal nurse and advisor. That evening we drove a bit further to The Roxy Supper Club in Oshkosh. We met Beth, a server who knows Dennis and Catherine, and who uses her quick wit and sarcasm to make dinner fun and memorable. We finished the night with a traditional Grasshopper at Sebastian’s Steakhouse in Fond du Lac.

Dennis and Catherine shared one last tradition before we returned our loaner car to Michael. We stopped in at Connie’s Diner in Fond du Lac for a simple farewell breakfast. The upholstered red booths and counter seats were festive, the schoolhouse lighting gave it a 1950’s charm while the stamped metal ceiling, painted white, indicated a late 1800’s vintage building. It had been a saloon, a medical office, a boot and shoe store, even a vulcanizing shop. Since 1930 it has been a restaurant under 11 different ownerships. Connie’s reportedly has a loyal and regular crowd so this diner should last many years.

We returned to Michael’s home with a clean car and full tank of gas. He then drove us to the Manitowoc Ferry Terminal for our return trip to Ludington, MI.

This side trip was exactly what we needed. Our week off of the boat allowed us to renew friendships, to check off a couple of bucket list items and to experience both western Michigan and northern Wisconsin. Our anxieties about our boat engine are not completely quelled. We will have to run the engine again before leaving the marina. We hope it is uneventful and we find nothing. Nada. Zilch. Keep your fingers crossed.

Many people will walk in and out of your life, but only true friends will leave footprints in your heart.

Eleanor Roosevelt

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